Cosmetic acupuncture is a form of acupuncture that aims to improve the appearance and condition of the skin while taking a broader approach to health and wellbeing.
Sometimes called facial acupuncture or facial rejuvenation acupuncture, it involves the insertion of very fine acupuncture needles into selected areas of the face, and sometimes elsewhere on the body. The treatment is based on the principles of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), rather than simply treating the skin as an isolated problem.
People seek cosmetic acupuncture for a variety of reasons, including fine lines, dull or tired-looking skin, uneven complexion and loss of skin tone. Some are particularly interested in it because they want a more natural approach to facial rejuvenation.
What is cosmetic acupuncture?
Cosmetic acupuncture is essentially acupuncture adapted to address concerns about the appearance of the face and skin.
Very fine needles are inserted into specific points on the face. Depending on the practitioner and the individual, acupuncture points on the body may also be used. Personally I think it is unethical to not also use points on the body, because according to the principles of Chinese Medicine, this produces better results, and results that are likely to last longer.
The intention is not simply to make the face look different temporarily, but to support the person’s overall balance while working specifically with the skin and facial tissues.
How is facial acupuncture supposed to work?
There are several ways in which acupuncture may influence the appearance of the skin.
The local insertion of very fine needles produces a small, controlled stimulus in the tissues. Localised blood flow is elevated after acupuncture for up to four hours. Acupuncture also affects the nervous system and produces physiological responses that extend beyond the immediate area being needled.
In TCM, however, the explanation is rather different. The quality of the skin is understood partly in terms of the circulation of Qi and Blood. When Qi and Blood are abundant and circulating well, the skin is traditionally considered more likely to appear healthy and well nourished.
This is one reason cosmetic acupuncture can involve treatment of the body as well as the face.
What can cosmetic acupuncture be used for?
People commonly seek facial acupuncture for:
- Fine lines and early signs of ageing
- Dull or tired-looking skin
- Uneven complexion
- Loss of facial tone
- Skin that appears dry or poorly nourished
- Tension in the face
- General facial rejuvenation
It is important to have realistic expectations, however. Cosmetic acupuncture is not a facelift, and it cannot reproduce the effects of surgery, dermal fillers or Botox.
The aim is generally to improve the overall appearance and condition of the skin rather than dramatically alter the structure of the face.
Does cosmetic acupuncture hurt?
The needles used for facial acupuncture are extremely fine. At worst, some people feel little more than a slight prick when a needle is inserted, and most people feel nothing at all.
Because the skin of the face can be sensitive, some points may be more noticeable than others. There may occasionally be a brief sensation of tingling, warmth or pressure.
Small amounts of bleeding or bruising can sometimes occur, particularly on the face where there are many small blood vessels, though this is rather rare.
A qualified acupuncturist should use sterile, single-use needles and follow appropriate hygiene and safety procedures.
How many treatments are needed?
There is no single number of treatments that is appropriate for everyone.
A course of treatment may initially involve regular sessions, followed by less frequent treatments once the desired improvement has been achieved.
The appropriate approach depends on factors such as age, skin condition, general health, lifestyle and the particular reason for seeking treatment.
It is also worth remembering that the skin is continually changing. Sleep, stress, diet, sun exposure, smoking and general health can all influence its appearance.
Cosmetic acupuncture therefore tends to work best as part of a broader approach to maintaining healthy skin rather than as a quick cosmetic procedure.
Cosmetic acupuncture compared with Botox and fillers
Cosmetic acupuncture is quite different from injectable cosmetic treatments.
Botox works by temporarily reducing the activity of particular muscles, thereby reducing certain types of expression lines.
Dermal fillers are substances injected beneath the skin to restore or add volume.
Cosmetic acupuncture does neither of these things. It does not paralyse muscles or add material beneath the skin.
Instead, acupuncture takes a more subtle approach, using stimulation of acupuncture points and, in TCM, addressing the person’s wider pattern of health.
This difference is important. Someone looking for a dramatic reduction in deep wrinkles or significant restoration of facial volume is unlikely to get the same result from acupuncture as they would from a medical cosmetic procedure.
For someone looking for a gentler approach to facial rejuvenation, however, cosmetic acupuncture may be worth considering.
What does the evidence say?
There is some research suggesting that facial acupuncture may have beneficial effects on aspects of facial appearance and skin condition. However, the evidence is still relatively limited compared with the large body of research surrounding conventional cosmetic procedures.
Studies of cosmetic acupuncture have often been relatively small, and there are differences between the acupuncture techniques used. This makes it difficult to draw strong conclusions about exactly how effective it is or which patients are most likely to benefit.
It is therefore better to regard cosmetic acupuncture as a complementary approach rather than promising that it will remove wrinkles or reverse ageing.
A responsible practitioner should be willing to discuss both what acupuncture may be able to do and its limitations.
Cosmetic acupuncture from a Traditional Chinese Medicine perspective
One of the interesting features of cosmetic acupuncture is that TCM does not necessarily separate the appearance of the skin from the rest of the body.
The face is traditionally considered to reflect the state of Qi and Blood and the functioning of the body’s internal systems.
Someone with dry skin, for example, may have a different TCM pattern from someone whose skin appears red and inflamed. Similarly, a person who looks tired and pale may be treated differently from someone whose face is flushed and tense.
This means that two people seeking cosmetic acupuncture for apparently similar concerns may receive quite different treatments.
The treatment is therefore not simply a matter of putting needles into wrinkles.
Is cosmetic acupuncture suitable for everyone?
Acupuncture is generally considered safe when carried out by a properly trained practitioner using sterile, single-use needles. Nevertheless, it is not appropriate for everyone in every circumstance.
Your acupuncturist should ask about your medical history, medications and any relevant health conditions before treatment.
Facial acupuncture should also be approached cautiously where there is active infection, significant inflammation or other unexplained changes to the skin.
If you have a persistent or concerning skin problem, it is important to obtain an appropriate medical diagnosis rather than assuming that it is simply a cosmetic issue.
A more natural approach to facial rejuvenation
One of the reasons people become interested in cosmetic acupuncture is that it takes a very different approach from conventional cosmetic medicine.
There are no fillers being injected beneath the skin and no attempt to immobilise facial muscles. Instead, acupuncture uses very fine needles to stimulate particular points, while a TCM practitioner may also consider the person’s general health, constitution and lifestyle.
The results, when they occur, are generally intended to be subtle rather than dramatic.
For some people, that is precisely the attraction.
Cosmetic acupuncture at Blue Dragon Acupuncture
At Blue Dragon Acupuncture, cosmetic acupuncture is approached as part of Traditional Chinese Medicine rather than as a purely cosmetic procedure.
Treatment can include facial acupuncture together with acupuncture points on the body, depending on the individual and their TCM pattern.
The aim is to work with the person as a whole while paying particular attention to the skin and face.
If you are considering cosmetic acupuncture, an initial consultation provides an opportunity to discuss what you would like to achieve and whether acupuncture is an appropriate approach for you.
Frequently asked questions
Will cosmetic acupuncture get rid of wrinkles?
It is better not to think of cosmetic acupuncture as a way of literally removing wrinkles. The aim is to improve the overall appearance and condition of the skin. Results vary between individuals.
How long does cosmetic acupuncture take?
A treatment session will usually include time for consultation as well as acupuncture. The exact length depends on the practitioner and the treatment being provided.
Are the needles different from ordinary acupuncture needles?
The needles used on the face are generally extremely fine. Facial acupuncture requires particular care because of the sensitivity and anatomy of the face.
Can cosmetic acupuncture be combined with ordinary acupuncture?
Yes. In TCM, treating the body as well as the face can be an important part of the treatment. The exact combination depends on the individual.
Is cosmetic acupuncture the same as facial acupuncture?
The terms are often used interchangeably. Facial acupuncture usually refers specifically to acupuncture involving the face, while cosmetic acupuncture can describe the broader use of acupuncture for ‘facial rejuvenation’ and appearance, though I am not personally keen on the term facial rejuvenation as it seems to me a made-up marketing term to make acupuncture sound more exotic (and concomitantly more expensive) than it already is.
Conclusion
Cosmetic acupuncture offers a different way of thinking about facial rejuvenation. Rather than attempting to alter the face through surgery, fillers or muscle-relaxing injections, it uses acupuncture to stimulate the face while considering the person’s wider health from a Traditional Chinese Medicine perspective.
The scientific evidence is still developing, and cosmetic acupuncture should not be presented as a miracle cure for ageing or wrinkles. But for people looking for a relatively gentle and non-invasive approach to facial rejuvenation, it may be an interesting option.
The most important thing is to have realistic expectations and to choose a properly qualified acupuncturist who can explain both the potential benefits and the limitations of treatment.
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